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Acclaimed Chef Reinvents Latin Bistro
De Santo Latin American Bistro | By Mary D. Scourtes
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The former McNulty Fire Station is tranformed into a chic eatery.
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Chef Jeannie Pierola thrives on surprise. Ordinary ingredients come together with extraordinary flair when her inventiveness goes into overdrive. One of the top foodies, the former Bern’s and SideBern’s executive chef has poured her relentless energy into a seductive menu at De Santo Latin American Bistro in downtown St. Petersburg.
Her intense flavor memory fuses favorite ingredients from around the globe, stopping in South America, Mexico and other destinations for bean-kumquat vaca frita duck, pear-sesame foie gras and Maine lobster ceviche.
Two phenomenal grandmothers introduced her to the culinary world, so maybe her sophisticated ropa vieja with slow-cooked rabbit confit traces back to those Ybor City roots. Her parents sigh. They wonder if her cooking style might be just a tad too time consuming. “They think it’s weird,” said Pierola. “They can’t understand the fire in my belly.”
Her culinary mentors, superstars such as Alain Ducase, Thomas Keller and Norman Van Aken, would understand how Pierola’s “compulsive and obsessive’’ nature sparks such painstaking preparations.
Patrons like De Santo’s ambience. Vivid art and colossal floor palms set off the warm brick of the former McNulty Fire Station. An etched glass partition and starburst lighting adorn a cozy bar that pours pleasing margaritas. Breezy patio seating beckons patrons outdoors. The vibe is more South Beach than St. Pete.
The staff details each dish with contagious enthusiasm, listing ingredients for each small plate—which are meant to be shared. Start with an imported Italian burrata, a delicate cheese pouch enhanced with pistachio pesto and fried basil. “We sold two cases in two days,” said Pierola about her $24 appetizer that she nicknamed a “caprese on steroids.”
Chicharrons, minus the traditional pork fat, combine cilantro and lime zest-scented shrimp cigars, fried remarkably crisp then offered with a bright blood orange, chipotle sauce. The chef’s indulgent vichyssoise soars to new heights when treated to inky huitlacoche (pronounced wee-tlah-KOH-cheh), truffles and popcorn shoots.
Delicate arepas, with choice of goat cheese, pork belly or foie gras, culminate with a sumptuous, vanilla-fig reduction. Thyme and citrus marinade coddle lamb anticuchos, served over black beans. Bacon-wrapped dates appease sweet and salty taste buds.
“I love piquilos,” said Pierola about a silky peppery flan, dotted with crème fraiche and salty sevruga caviar.
A choice pairing from De Santo’s “wine list of the moment” offers a range of selection. Fried whole fish has always been a favorite entrée in Latin American kitchens. “I know that some have the willies if they see a whole fish,” said Pierola. She is happy so many like to deconstruct her whole, yellow tail snapper. Enjoy the Serrano ham, pineapple and smoked paprika sauce that frame plump, seared scallops.
Taste the dense vanilla Crème Brulee, adorned with a Mexican chocolate Bunuelo or strawberry kiwi sorbet as cool conclusions. After dinner, venture to the second floor Push Ultra Lounge or the roof top lounge.
“I like being adventurous,” said Pierola. “I want to experience
things that are really delicious. My epitaph should read, ‘It was all delicious.’ "
De Santo Latin American Bistro
128 Third Street S., St. Petersburg, FL
www.desantorestaurant.com | 727-895-6400
Lunch: 11 a.m. Mon.-Fri.
Dinner: 5 p.m. Tue.-Sun.
Cantina Time: 3 p.m. - 7 p.m. Tue.-Fri.
Push Ultra Lounge
www.pushlounge.com | 727-895-7874
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