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Amarone
Italy's Unique Red Wine | By Kevin Pelley
Amarone is one of Italy’s greatest red wines. Produced just north of Verona on the fertile volcanic soils of the Valpolicella Classico region, not far from Lake Garda. Literally translated, Amarone means ‘bitter strong,’ which is an apt description of the wine’s style due to a unique method of production known as appassimento.
Appassimento is the process of partially drying the region’s three indigenous grapes: Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara on straw mats in well ventilated lofts. The fruit is left to resinate for approximately four months, which intensifies the grape’s flavors and concentrates its sugar levels. The partially dried grapes are then fermented into a rich, heady and compelling dry wine style known as Amarone.
A powerful, delicious wine with common flavors of cherry, black plum, raisin, dried fig, dates, cocoa powder and earth. Classically paired with rich, winter dishes such as stew, game meats, grilled beef and strong cheeses. Amarone was awarded DOC status (an Italian quality assurance labeling law) in 1990. Unfortunately, less than 10% of the wine produced in the province of Verona is Amarone. The limited production and high quality result in an expensive wine for consumers, but cellared properly Amarone will age beautifully for decades.
2004 Masi Costasera Amarone $46.95
Costasera gets its name from the coasts that face the sunset. These locations are the best places for vineyards that produce wine for Amarone production. Masi is a superb producer and this entry level Amarone is a great introduction to the style.
2001 Masi ‘Serego Alighieri’ Vaio Amarone $69.95
All of the fruit for this wine comes from the esteemed Serego Alighieri estate. This unique Amarone is aged in cherry oak casks that impart a distinct red cherry fruit flavor with hints of vanilla and a long silky finish.
2000 Bertani Amarone $94.95
The dry Amarone exhibits classic raisin, fig and date fruit flavors with dry dusty tannins. The finish is long with hints of tobacco and truffle. Delicious.
2001 Masi ‘Campolongo di Torbe’ Amarone $119.95
This unbelievably complex wine, from the Campolongo di Torbe Vineyard, has flavors of dried flowers reminiscent of lavender and rose water, sweet spices of cinnamon, cardamom and clove with fresh and dried fruit flavors of cherry, fig, prune and cassis. The wine has soft tannins and an extremely long finish.
2001 Masi ‘Mazzano’ Amarone $129.95
The Boscaini family, who own Masi, feels this is their best and most age-worthy wine. If the Campolongo di Torbe is the aromatic, feminine and delicate single vineyard; then the Mazzano is the powerful, masculine and broody big brother. Austere and majestic, the wine’s ripe black fruit and dried fruit flavors mingle with cinnamon, vanilla, dark chocolate and mushrooms. Extraordinary wine.
—Kevin Pelley, Certified Sommelier
Wine Merchant at Bern’s Fine Wines & Spirits
and Wine Director at SideBern’s
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