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Maremma: Along the Tuscan Coast
At the forefront of Italy’s
Super Tuscan wine movement | By Kevin Pelley
Maremma is the wine region along the southern coast of Tuscany that is characterized by a spirit of innovation and excitement. Once known for production of the Sangiovese grape, many producers have introduced international grape varieties such as: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. This spawned Italy’s Super Tuscan wine movement. By definition, a Super Tuscan is a wine that does not use traditional approved grape varieties or production methods of the region as set forth by Italy’s wine regulators and DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) wine laws. The most famous wine village of Maremma is Bolgheri. Bolgheri is home to the most famous Super Tuscans: Ornellaia, Sassicaia and Grattamacco. What makes this part of Tuscany so special is its unique climate and soil types. Maremma is far warmer than northern Tuscany and allows the Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes to fully ripen, yet is moderated by the cool Mediterranean breezes. The rocky coastal regions of Maremma have mineral-rich soils that impart complexity to the incredible wines produced there. Though some Super Tuscans from Maremma are expensive, 2003 Sassicaia $169.95, there are some wonderful values to be found from this emerging wine region.
2004 Rocca di Montemassi Le Focaie Sangiovese $12.95
Traditionally styled Sangiovese exhibits sour cherries, tobacco and light hints of vanilla for the finish. Like many Sangioveses from Tuscany, this wine is high in acidity which makes it a natural complement to tomato sauce. This is a great introduction to the wines of Maremma.
2001 Mazzei Serrata di Belguardo $20.95
An affordable Super Tuscan is Fonterutoli’s project in Maremma. It blends the region’s primary grape – Sangiovese with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The result is a powerful wine with firm tannins and a combination of red and black cherry fruit flavors, licorice and violets.
2004 Poggio Verrano Dromos $54.95
This modern wine has pure fruit flavors of blackberries, cassis and black cherries with anise seed, wild thyme and minimal earthiness. Dromos combines the regional Sangiovese grape with Alicante, Cabernet, Cabernet Franc and Merlot to create a silky, polished wine with potential for aging, but enough fruit for immediate consumption.
2003 San Guido Sassicaia $169.95
This wine is the stuff of legends. Sassicaia is the innovator and the first Super Tuscan (updated to its own DOC status in 1994). Made to rival the best wines of Bordeaux, this blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon and a little Cabernet Franc is built for aging. Dark, tannic and powerful, Sassicaia is meant to be cellared for a decade (or more) before opening. Flavors of cassis, tobacco, cedar, cocoa and smoke emerge from the glass. World-class, collectable and legendary, Sassicaia has inspired generations of Italian winemakers and changed the way wine is made in Maremma.
—Kevin Pelley, Certified Sommelier
Wine Merchant at Bern’s Fine Wines & Spirits
and Wine Director at SideBern’s
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